Garlic is really easy to grow as I found out this past year.  I planted two varieties last fall in a small section of one of the raised beds.  In July, I harvested the garlic and we’ve been enjoying it in soups, salsa, pastas, pizzas, etc… ever since.  The flavor has been grand and it was so easy to grow that last week I was out getting ready to grow my own again.

This year I’m growing ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.  Both are hardneck which means I will get two harvests instead of just one.

You may be thinking, “Come again, TWO harvests?”

Hardneck varieties of garlic send up a round stalk (a.k.a. scape) mid-season and when this stalk curls you can snap it off and use it as your first garlic harvest.

Photo Courtesy of Island Vittles

The scapes can be used just like scallions.  Basically think of them as scallions that taste like garlic!  The scapes have all the health benefits garlic offers and by cutting them you are helping the plant put more energy into the garlic bulb that is forming below the ground.  It’s a win/win for garlic lovers!

Don’t sweat it if you didn’t already know this…I learned about it this last growing season and actually missed the window to harvest my scapes!  I gazed at the curly tips thinking they were “cool” but as I read other garden blogs mid-summer I realized the “pig tails” were more than interesting form.

So this year I’m reminding myself as much as any of you that are new to garlic growing – get two harvests out of hardneck garlic!

Thinking about one last act of planting and going for garlic?  If so, read on and then don’t dilly-dally for “Winter is a coming”…

Where To Get It? – This is the most complicated part of growing garlic if you are a local reader (meaning you live in southern Idaho).  This is because all garlic grown in southern Idaho must be inspected for white rot disease and then certified that it is free of this enemy.  White rot is fungus that can be on or within what seems to be perfectly untainted garlic.  However, once in the ground the fungus becomes active and can turn garlic or onions in the area into mush. Since Idaho has a 55 million dollar onion industry, it has placed a quarantine and certification process on all seed garlic to be planted in southern Idaho.

So, to answer the simple question, local readers get your garlic from any local nursery so you know it is certified and o.k. to plant (DO NOT plant garlic from the grocery store).  All other readers check to see if you have certification requirements in your area and then get your garlic seed from what seems to be the best source available.  Keep in mind, this will most likely be local nurseries or farms or mail orders that specialize in garlic seed.

What Kind To Plant? The general rule of thumb is that hardneck garlic varieties do best in cold climates and softneck varieties do well in milder climates.  However, you can experiment and see what does best in your garden.

Planting Your Garlic  Once you’ve made your selection and have it at hand, prepare for planting.  Choose a sunny site that has loose, fertile, well-draining soil.  Mix in a couple of inches of compost to the chosen site.

Next “bust apart” in a gentle way (not always easy!) the individual cloves from the head of garlic.  Keep the paper sheath around each individual clove intact.  Use a bulb planter to dig holes 3-4 inches deep just as you would for spring-flowering bulbs.  Space the holes 4-5 inches apart within a row.  Rows can be 10-20 inches apart.

My rows are a bit closer together because I’m growing in a raised bed which means a limited about of space.  I plant about 20 cloves (so a very moderate amount) in two rows and have not experienced a problem with the rows being closer together.

Now plant the individual cloves in the holes with the root end (blunt end) down.  Gently push the clove into the soil and inch or so.  This way it will have good contact with the soil and will insure a straight neck.

Now cover the cloves with 3-4 inches of soil and if no rain is expected water well.  It is also a good idea to spread a couple of inches of mulch over the top of the garlic for cold protection and to keep moisture in the soil.  Leaves work great as a mulch for garlic if you don’t want to buy mulch from a nursery or garden center.  Remember to remove the mulch in Spring as soon as the danger of frost has passed.

Growing Your Garlic  Garlic likes water so once Spring has arrived and you see the green tops peeking through the soil make sure the water supply is maintained.  Be careful to not overwater though or the bulbs (garlic heads) will rot.  Garlic also likes food but the amount of fertilizer you should use depends on your soil.  Generally speaking, it is wise to mix in composted manure or a well-balanced fertilizer in the spring.  Some gardeners water with fish or kelp emulsion a couple of times in early spring to give the bulbs a boost.

Be careful to not overdo it with fertilizer or you will end up with lots of leaves and a small bulb.  Everything in moderation should be a good strategy unless your soil is particularly lacking fertility and the ability to hold moisture.

Digging Your Garlic  In mid-summer the bottom leaves of the garlic plant will start to turn yellow.  This is the sign to stop all watering for 2-3 weeks and then your garlic will be ready to harvest.  Gently pull up the entire plant with the help of hand trowel or garden fork and place entire plants in a shady area to cure.  The best place to cure garlic is a shady place with good air circulation so perhaps a garage, covered patio or barn. Do not place garlic in a sunny location to cure or it will sunburn and then rot.

I place my garlic on plastic racks/screens to insure good air circulation around the heads and then place them on my shady patio for a couple of weeks.  After that I trim the stalks of the garlic and let it sit out for another 2-3 days.  The air in my climate is extremely dry so a 2+ week curing process is all that is needed.  In climates with a lot of moisture in the air a longer cure may be wise as the curing process determines how well the garlic will store.

If you have clay soil and it is stuck to the garlic heads gently wash it off with fresh water being careful to not soak the garlic.  Another alternative is to get a wet rag and carefully wipe it off. You can trim the roots to 1/4″ at this time if you like.

Storing Your Garlic  It is important to store the garlic in a dark environment where the temperature does not fluctuate much (60-70 F) and there is good ventilation. I use mesh bags and store them in my pantry for convenience.  A cupboard would work great too.  Just remember to keep the garlic in the dark as much as possible.  I’ve read about storing garlic in braids which is supposed to be a preferred method of storage but I have not tried this. Different types and varieties of garlic have different storage lives, but as a general rule hardneck varieties can be stored for about 6 months and softneck varieties a bit longer maybe even up to 11 or 12 months for some types.

Some of Johnny Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds arugula came from a small section of a spring pot I planted few weeks ago.  I like to mix edibles with ornamentals in pots and the arugula looks pretty with spring flowers and serves as a nice little flavor booster to the first salads.

The next cut was some Tom Thumb buttercrunch lettuce (lactuca sativa) from the raised bed garden. A few plants of this variety germinated last fall  due to my effort towards planting fall crops.  The little lettuces didn’t really do more than germinate last fall but they held on during the winter and began to grow in early March. They looked absolutely ready for harvest last weekend.

The final cut was the result of my seed planting efforts in early March and is Lettuce Rocky Top Mix from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.  I made a light-weight hoop house for this raised bed which kept the temperatures just a tiny bit warmer and protected young seedlings from the cold spring winds.  (The strawberries have loved it too!) This lettuce should probably be thinned but this time I just cut figuring I’ll get to it later.

I was pleasantly surprised at being able to harvest enough mixed greens to make a salad for six allowing my family and parents to enjoy the freshness.  I topped the greens with shavings of parmesan cheese, roasted beets and pistachios, then drizzled with an olive oil/balsamic salad dressing.  Delish!

How about you?  What are you harvesting in your garden?  What was or will be your ‘first cut’ this season?

One of my new veggie choices for this year is beets.  I’ve never done much with them but I have become more interested since learning about all they have to offer.  For example, you can not only eat the beets but also the beet ‘greens’ a.k.a. young foliage.  Also, I have come across more and more simple recipes (TODAY FOOD,  WELL-NY Times Blog, Eighty Twenty ) that include beets and this is probably because they are known to contain antioxidants and anti-inflamtory and detoxification support. Since they are full of fiber, magnesium and potassium not to mention beta-carotene, calcium and iron and are easy to prepare there is a lot to like about beets!

So I’m trying Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds for my beet seeds (‘Bulls Blood’ and ‘Golden’).  I’ve never purchased from them before but they have an excellent reputation (only selling non-GMO seeds), very reasonable prices and the largest selection of heirloom seeds available in the U.S.  They recently put out a book titled, ‘The Heirloom Life Gardener’ that I first heard about on NPR’s Morning Edition this fall.  The book looks to be quite a resource for learning about gardening with heirloom varieties.  Have you heard of it?

Another new-to-me supplier with very reasonable prices is The Fragrant Path from Nebraska.  This company focuses primarily on fragrant plants, as the name reveals and has a nice selection of annuals, perennials, grasses and herbs.  I’m ordering Datura metel or Angel’s Trumpet as an ornamental for my back patio.

Of course, there are just too many temptations from a company like Johnny’s Selected Seeds to not place an order.  Besides, I’ve been able to germinate seeds from Johnny’s that were many years old and had not been stored properly so I think they have quality seeds.  You can always count on Johnny’s to find something you like and for me this year, it’s arugula, kale, lettuces, Gold Rave tomato, Baby Bear pumpkins and Buttercream and Chocolate sunflowers.  Doesn’t that sound fun?!

Seeds of Change, Rene’s Gardens, Territorial Seed Co., and Botanical Interests are other wonderful seed companies that I always purchase a packet or two from.  I’ve got a few things from them already but have not finished my selections just yet.  In other words, I have to garner up some self-discipline and make sure my seedy ideas are not out of control before I place my order.

I had gotten away from growing with seed but went back to it last year and although it is inexpensive, gives you more control over what you grow and is very rewarding, those little guys can be time-consuming when it comes time to pot up, harden off and plant out.  So good to remember the old saying, your eyes can be bigger than…your available garden time!

How about you?  Who are some of your favorite seed suppliers?  Are you growing a new vegetable or fruit this year?  Do you have a special flower you are trying from seed? Are you planning to grow more with heirloom and organic seeds this year?

‘Bells of Ireland’ are used in floral arrangements and this is how I became familiar with them …hence my story…

Six years ago, I ordered some ‘Bells of Ireland’ seeds from Johnny’s Selected Seeds.  I was living in Pennsylvania at the time and had decided to start all my vegetables and some “cutting”  flowers from seed.  I saw “Bells of Ireland”  in the catalog, remembered how beautiful they were and decided they were a must-have for summer flower arrangements I would make.  I also ordered a number of tomatoes, lettuces, cucumbers, herbs, etc… and as so easily happens I ran out of time and did not get the ‘Bells of Ireland’ started that year.  I didn’t even open the seed packet!

You all  know how fast life flows, time goes by quickly and sometimes, some things don’t get carried forth…Well, last spring (2010) after five years and two big moves, I found my ‘Bells of Ireland’ seeds and decided why not throw some in my raised planters.  I still had never grown this annual but I knew it would be stunning in arrangements. I had the seeds so why not give it a whirl right?  I planted some and nothing happened, or so I thought at the time.

O.K., fast forward to this spring, (2011) and I’ve once again decided to grow many things from seed.  I find the ‘Bells of Ireland’ seed packet again and decide again to give them a try by planting some in my raised planters.

By the way, I have also found my left over tomato, lettuce and basil seeds from Johnny’s (now six years old) and decide to try growing them too.  They sprout wonderfully and I am happy to share that all but two of the tomatoes I’m growing this year came from old Johnny’s seeds that were not stored in any special environment.  Unless you consider a really cold and really hot garage (seasonally) a special storage environment!

Back to the Bells…As the spring continues, I plant my tiny vegetables starts in the raised planters along with a variety of seeds and from time to time I see a weed or two growing in the raised planter.  I promptly pull the weed to keep the beds pristine for my produce.

One day as I was about to pull a particularly healthy looking weed, something in my brain told me to STOP!  Stopping to think for just a split second before pulling made me realize this ‘weed’ looked different from all the others and was particularly healthy and vigorous.  Another second and I somehow recollected a faint memory of this “weed” last spring in the raised planters but nowhere else.

So I forced myself to leave the ‘weed’ alone to see what it might become.  I say forced because leaving this ‘unknown’ to grow was a bit harder than it should have been.  I have a thing about the raised beds being pristine and remember this was at the beginning of the season when hopes, goals and energy are maximized!

As spring evolved the seeds sprouted, the starts grew and the planter began to fill in.  The ‘weed’ also grew.  I resisted the urge to’ just pull it’ several times.  I felt the space it was taking was needed for my kale and beets and I didn’t like the look of having a huge weed growing in my raised planter with my other highly revered edibles.

Then one day after some rains and higher than normal levels of humidity I went out to the garden and spotted something I wasn’t expecting…The ‘Bells of Ireland’ had arrived!

The “weed” had grown tremendously over the last couple of days and amongst the mass of round foliage leaves were large spires and on those spires behind the round leaves were light green, bell-shaped flowers!

My intuition to not pull the plant had guided me well!  This “weed” was actually the “Bells of Ireland” plant that I wanted for arrangements for all those years!

I could see the bells so clearly now but beforehand had no idea of what to look for or what I was looking at!  Needless to say, I have finally been able to enjoy the “Bells of Ireland” I ordered so many years ago…It’s times like these that can make a gardener’ heart sing!

Do you have a funny plant story?  If so, please take a minute and share…

P.S.  Just in case anyone else is interested in growing ’Bells of Ireland’ they seem to be very easy to grow with regular water and well-draining soil.  The plants get large offering many spires of bell-shaped flowers.  One must remove the round leaves covering the “bells” to get the final effect.  Be careful and wear gloves removing the foliage because the spires are covered with prickles that seem soft but are actually very sharp.  I have also read they self-seed freely but I do not have first-hand experience with this part of their cultivation.

In my area (USDA Zone 6, Sunset 2a/3b), it is a good time to plant cool season vegetables and my lettuce and kale are ready to go to their outdoor home.  They’ve spent about 3 days outside, protected from wind, but getting a bit more light exposure each day.  I would typically plant them tomorrow but the night temps are going to dip below freezing in the next couple of days so I’ll wait until they stabilize (hover around 32-33) before planting.  Most cool season vegetables can take a light freeze (29ish-32)  but I don’t want to shock the young seedlings to that extent the first night outside.

If your warm season seedlings have grown well over the last few weeks it may be time to PU. You’ll need some slightly larger containers, seed starting mix, spray bottle and pencil to begin the PU process.  The stems of the young plants are super fragile so be careful and try to handle by leaves if possible.  When they are in the new container be sure to give them a good soak and place back in the growing station for warmer days ahead.

My tomato plants have done very well and I have seedlings of all three varieties I planted.  Remember the tomato seeds my friend sent me?  They have no official name because she couldn’t remember what it was but the plant was so fantastic she wanted to share it.  Well, these babies have shot up especially well and I think just about every seed I planted sprouted!  I have given them the unofficial name of ‘Karen’ as I need to remember them somehow.  I chose terra-cotta pots to plant into as this size container should last until I can get them outside in about three-four weeks.

My Dark Opal Basil and ‘Tequila Sunrise’ Peppers have been a bit slower but I think they will be happier in slightly larger containers as well.  I’m happy they are all a good color and not too leggy.  One thing to consider if your seedlings were started in very small containers (like mine) and their growth is only about 2 inches but seems to have slowed recently,  it may be a good idea to PU.  I found with my basil and peppers the root systems were significant when compared to the size of the seedling and a larger container is perfect to continue growth until ready to head outside in mid-May.

How are your seedlings doing?  Have you successfully planted some outside or are you waiting awhile and deciding to PU?  Share some of your successes or set backs so far this Spring…

What have you noticed? Do the children in your life show a keen, albeit fleeting interest in growing something fantastic?  If so, how about planting some peas together?  Peas are really geared towards kids as they are easy to handle, easy to plant and grow quickly – elements required to foster the magic of growing.

Of course there’s the added bonus that fresh peas offer a mild, slightly sweet delicious flavor and can be eaten right off the vine.  Now how fun is that!!

The first step in pea planting is to pre-sprout them.  This is super simple yet important because it helps the peas germinate and begin growing more quickly than if planted directly in the garden – a key factor in keeping kids interested.  Also, it reduces the chance that the peas will rot in the cool wet soil as they will already have small roots growing, using energy from the water and soil.  I don’t use an inoculant when planting peas, instead I use this pre-sprouting method and have been pleased with the results.  However, if interested in an inoculant give it a try as it is known to increase yields.

To start, place the pea seeds in a small glass of water for a few minutes.  Next have the kids get a paper towel and wet it with water so that it is damp.

Take some peas and lay them on one end of the damp towel.  Fold the paper towel over keeping the peas in place and fold each of the sides over so the peas do not fall out.

Now gently slide them into a ziplock bag, close it 3/4 of the way (keep a little air circulation) and place in a warm spot. A window sill that gets indirect light or somewhere in your kitchen with medium light is a good choice.  If you like, have the children label the bags so they can keep track of their seeds.  Also, if choosing to grow more than one kind of pea, make a note of what is in each bag so you can remember the growth habit of the particular varieties such as height etc…

Over the next 3-4 days make sure the paper towel stays moist and have the children check the peas by sliding the towel out of the bag to look for sprouts.  Keep the towel moist by using a spray bottle to spray a little water on the towel.  The peas should start shooting out little roots in just a few days and it is now time to plant them.

(If you can’t plant them immediately, its o.k. but try not to have too much moisture in the zip lock or they can begin to mold.  I had to leave our peas in the bags for six days before we all had time to get back to our garden project and they were fine but the sooner you can plant the better.)

Before planting make sure your site gets six hours or more of sun and has been amended with some compost or organic matter for the upcoming growing season.  Also, if planting peas that climb high make sure you have a structure for them to grow on.

‘Super Sugar Snap’ grows over six feet tall, so we are planting at bottom of large iron trellis.

Have kids make approximately 1 inch deep holes about 2-3 inches apart.  They can make them with their fingers in the loosened soil or with a little stick etc…  They place the peas in the hole with the little roots placed on the down-side and then gently cover them with soil.  If planting a large row dig a 1 inch deep furrow and place peas along the bottom and gently cover with soil.  Give planted peas a good soak and let the magic begin!

Now go ahead, kidnap the children in your life from their extra curricular activities, computers, friends, the T.V. and various other distractions and spend some time together planting peas.  You’ll be HAP-PEA with the results!

There are many types of poppies some perennial, some annual.  The bread poppies (papaver somniferum) are an annual but are considered a hardy, re-seeder.  They should be direct-sowed outside in early spring or late fall.  The description hardy, re-seeder  means you can plant them once and should have some return each year although they are technically annuals.  Bread poppies return because the blooms are followed by large seed capsules/pods and if you leave them in your garden for the rest of the season the pods will continue to mature and inside will be many tiny poppy seeds. Seeds from the pods will fall here and there and lie dormant until the following spring where they will start all over again.

If you want more poppies in your garden or want them to grow in a certain area, cut the ripe pods from the stems and use them like a salt shaker, simply shake the seeds in the areas you want them to grow.  If interested in using the seeds for culinary purposes, cut all the ripe pods and shake the seeds over a tray to collect them.

Top view of seed pod

From http://www.poppies.org/gallery/ (used with permission of site owner)

Don’t let the description “hardy, re-seeder” scare you into thinking they may be invasive.  Another great quality of bread poppies is the root system is not large and you can easily pull them if they are growing in an area you don’t want them.  Some people thin out all but the largest, strongest volunteers as the smaller, weaker ones do not produce the large blooms.  Speaking of scaring someone, I suppose I should mention papaver somniferum is also known as Opium poppy and it is supposedly against the law to sell or possess Opium poppy-seed.  However, many nurseries and seed companies sell bread poppy varieties and seeds.  So if you fall in love with bread poppies and grow them profusely in your garden, keep them somewhat in check.  Otherwise you may get unwanted attention from nosy passersby!

THE BIG EASY

To plant bread poppy seeds simply loosen the top 1/4 inch of soil a bit with a hand rake or hand spade.  Just fluff it up a bit.  Now take the tiny seeds and scatter them loosely in your area.  If you like, take your hand and lightly pat the soil where you have spread the seed.  (You don’t have to do this, but I do.) This is just to make sure seeds have contact with the soil.  Caution: Do not cover the seeds with soil. They need light to germinate.  That’s it you’re done!  So, if its cold in your area bundle up, if it’s raining wait for a break –  then got out for 10 minutes and do something easy with big reward.

Extras: Bread poppies come in many colors ranging from white, pink, red, purple, deep plum and blueish-purple.  They are usually single, but there are some doubles and some forms have fringed petals.  Most all have pretty blue-green foliage and pods can be decorative in dried floral arrangements.  They are very tiny when first emerging so look for them with keen eyes.

Seed sources for bread poppies: Seeds of Change, Urban Sunshine, One Stop Poppy Shoppe

Local source for Hungarian Blue Bread Poppy  - Boise Co-op